The vibrant streets of Denmark’s capital burst into a sartorial splendour as Copenhagen Fashion Week takes centre stage. This season, the spring/summer 2024 lineup served up a delightful blend of seasoned Danish designers and emerging independents, showcasing the best spring/summer styles that will dominate the streets and runways alike in 2024. From August 7 to August 12, despite the rain gracing the front row with more umbrellas than designer bags, the city’s busiest show calendar (so far) marched forward.
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While there were brands like Deadwood and Rolf Ekroth that remained true to the ethos of CPHFW and whipped out a sustainable collection, other labels like Henrik Vibskov and Sunflowers gave a fun spin to vintage classics when it came to menswear. A fashionista’s dream, this season’s men’s showcase was truly showstopping.
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Here’s taking a look at the standout moments from the spring/summer 2024 catwalks, featuring the creative genius of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s best designers
Lattimier
Dubbed ‘Position is Power’, Ervin Latimer’s eponymous show defied conventions in all forms. Channelling the male archetypes of the New York Stock Exchange, Latimer presented a show that blended the subversive with corporate chic. Anna Konda, Latimer’s drag alter ego, opened the show, embodying power moves and setting the tone for the collection.
The runway unveiled a subversive corporate-core fantasy, where shirts became canvases cascading with Bic biros, suits sported back-to-front braces and trousers donned tassels that hinted at a playful dalliance with the office shredder. The collection dared to declare ‘Money, powder, glory’ with T-shirts while showcasing edgy twists on traditional office attire, creating a fabulously audacious statement.
Deadwood
Hailing from Stockholm, Deadwood echoed their commitment to sustainability, mirroring the SS24 ethos of Copenhagen Fashion Week. The brand’s runway presented a meticulously crafted unisex collection, a slow-blooming masterpiece fashioned from upcycled leather and recycled cotton jersey. Denim took centre stage, revealing contemporary unisex designs meticulously crafted from deadstock and repurposed materials. Think leather skirts paired with oversized hoodies and cropped jackets effortlessly matched with baggy jeans, all cinched together by oversized belts. A dash of Balenciaga-esque energy filled the air as models strutted down the runway with ice-cold faces, donning boots and chunky sneakers.
P.L.N.
Peter Lundvald Nielsen’s SS 2024 collection, presented on models adorned with bandages and oversized mouthguards, unveiled a deeply personal narrative for the Danish designer. This collection was a reflection on the need for self-preservation, fueled by Nielsen’s impactful experience in LA. Padded silhouettes reminiscent of American football merged with grunge-glamour dresses, offering a commentary on extreme wealth while hinging on deadstock fabrics. This fusion of elements created a collection that resonated with one’s fighting spirit, an amalgamation of style and resilience.
Mark Kelly Domino Tan
Mark Kelly Domino Tan aka mkdtstudio unveiled a collection that explored and embraced the intricate dance between clothing and the human body. Layers upon layers danced down the runway, exuding a palette dominated by greys, whites and blacks. The pieces looked durable, beckoning to become staples in your wardrobe, offering infinite possibilities for styling. Fringe-hemmed coats, bolero jackets, pleated trousers adorned with suspender straps and Kimonos whispering of quiet luxury were the stars of the show. Domino Tan’s collection brought a touch of divine elegance to Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24, with monochromatic hues and understated tones taking centre stage.
Henrik Vibskov
Henrik Vibskov, fresh off the heels of celebrating two decades in Paris, electrified Day 3 with a riotous SS 2024 collection.
Vibrant prints and artistically designed outerwear danced alongside the minimalist spirit of CPHFW SS24. It was a celebration of sorts, with riotous colours, patterns, eccentricities and a cascade of individualism defining the fashion soiree. The show ventured into the realm of boxing gloves, deconstructing and transforming them into rustic, Bruegel-esque hats. Footwear boasted padded ankle wraps, while bird-patterned sweaters and avian-inspired spiral earrings, in collaboration with jeweller Vibe Harsløf, spoke to the playful essence of the collection. The show was also inclusive, embracing diverse shapes, sizes and ages, uniting young and old, chiselled and bear-like models in a grand spring/summer spectacle.
Rolf Ekroth
Finnish poker player-turned-designer Rolf Ekroth made his runway debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week, showcasing a gender-fluid collection as part of the New Talent program. Boldly printed outerwear, pastel streetwear and flowing, patterned skirts epitomised the collection. A harmonious blend of ordered restraint and vivid exuberance played out on the runway.
Named “Missing,” the lineup resonated with a myriad of fashion desires. The collection’s versatility was its strength, with elements like headscarves and aprons from rural Scandinavian farmwear transformed into gender-neutral pieces that radiated fashionable utilitarianism. The fusion of grunge-meets-camping aesthetics with floral patterns and padded silhouettes formed the core of the collection’s narrative. Pendant friendship bracelets, a macramé dress adorned with rose patterns, and a rope-net suit overlay embellished with real roses added intrigue to the ensemble. The lineup’s vivid reds, an ode to the flower, captured the essence of a sizzling summer, be it for men or women.
Stamm
Elisabet Stamm’s SS 2024 show became a vibrant tapestry woven from her childhood memories. The runway came alive with animal prints and patchwork, transporting Stamm’s past into a covetable present. Digitally printed images of animals adorned jackets, anoraks and tracksuits in an abstract yet nostalgic manner. This sense of nostalgia reverberated not just through her motifs but also through the materials; 90% of the collection was fashioned from deadstock fabrics or reused material. Accompanied by a soundtrack curated by her friend, French producer Princ€, and enlivened by a live performance by Scandinavian-Syrian rapper Silvana Imam, the show radiated artful spontaneity.
Marimekko
Marimekko took centre stage with a homage to the 60th anniversary of their iconic ‘Unikko’ print. Robust textures intertwined with vibrant printed dresses and effortlessly layered summer styles defined their SS24 collection.
Staying true to their inclusive ethos, Marimekko opened their runway to all, hosting the show at Designmuseum Danmark. The signature ‘Unikko’ flowers of the ’60s blossomed alongside minimalist silhouettes, touched by hints of utilitarian charm. These floral wonders wove themselves into workwear-inspired designs, boasting washed canvas and heavy cotton-twill separates in a kaleidoscope of colours. Embracing Marimekko’s signature spirit, the palette danced with hues of brown, fuchsia pink, tangerine orange and verdant green, creating a playful tapestry.
SUNFLOWER
Reviving the essence of the 1970s and ’80s, Sunflower made a triumphant return to Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24, embracing iconic silhouettes of the past. The Danish brand paid homage to classic menswear tailoring, anchoring its designs in timeless elegance. This season’s collection melded moto vests with chore jackets, tuxedo jackets with floral boxers and mesh button-downs with oversized trousers. Effortless and straightforward, Sunflower’s creations embodied the brand’s motifs and broad menswear spectrum, channelling a laidback ’70s rocker aesthetic which included flowy head-to-toe denim ensembles and mesh button-downs paired with roomy trousers.
Vain
Following their viral collaboration with McDonald’s, Vain stormed onto the Copenhagen Fashion Week stage, making a striking debut in an expansive paintball arena. Creative director Jimi Vain and CEO Rope Reinola welcomed around 300 guests, embodying the brand’s ethos of youthful rebellion. The collection mirrored their meteoric rise from Finnish obscurity to sizzling prominence within two years. Dominated by sleek black, the lineup featured long coats, hoodies, turtlenecks and leather jackets, all adorned with the brand’s signature heart emblem. The runway lit up with mini leather creations, adorned with buckles, straps and rings adding a dash of irresistible allure to the ensembles.
In conclusion, the Copenhagen Fashion Week SS 2024 unveiled an exciting tapestry of creativity, sustainability and individuality, igniting the city with a fervour that’s unmistakably its own. The runways transformed into avenues of self-expression, weaving tales of nostalgia, rebellion and artistry that transcend mere clothing. As the fashion curtains draw to a close, the echoes of this season’s magic will surely linger on.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What are the dates for Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024?
– Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024 kicked off on August 7 and concluded on August 12.
What is the venue for Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024?
– Copenhagen City Hall, Rådhuspladsen, Copenhagen, Denmark is the venue for the Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024.
(Hero and feature image credit: Courtesy Instagram/James Cochrane and Copenhagen Fashion Week)
