Milan Fashion Week kicked off the new year on a stylish note with its menswear edition for the Fall/Winter 2024 season.
Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno started off the very first fashion week of the year by debuting his second collection for the Italian fashion house. Another highlight of the season has been the debut of Stone Island — the revered Italian label hosted its inaugural runway show, a notable feat for a brand established in 1982.
In addition, JW Anderson returned to Milan to unveil a menswear collection that promised unexpected elements, as teased on Instagram, with hints of budgie-shaped bags. Meanwhile, Prada brought in the merger of nature and indoor environments as a part of its fashion showcase. The Milan Fashion Week schedule also featured shows and collections by renowned names such as Fendi, Emporio Armani, Dhruv Kapoor, Tod’s, MSGM and Zegna.
So without further ado, let’s take a look at the best of menswear at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024.
Sabato De Sarno refined his creative direction for Gucci as he presented his first menswear collection for the Italian fashion house. The showcase took place in a former factory on the northern outskirts of Milan, and the collection exuded a relaxed and carefree vibe reminiscent of the distinctive style that defined his womenswear presentation.
The men’s collection consisted of trench coats, well-cut blazers, relaxed suits, pleated trousers and tank tops along with leather shoulder bags and monogrammed backpacks, emphasising the minimalist approach taken by De Sarno.
Stone Island emerged as one of the most exciting additions to the Milan Fashion Week Men’s lineup this season. Despite being established in 1982, the Italian brand had never previously presented a show in the fashion capital of the country. However, for the Fall/Winter 2024 season, the label unveiled its new vision titled The Compass Inside to fashion enthusiasts.
Some key pieces from the latest collection comprised military-infused coats, bomber jackets, light coats, utilitarian trousers and suede jackets.
Silvia Venturini Fendi drew inspiration from UK’s Princess Anne for the latest collection, capturing the same sense of lightheartedness and playfulness that characterises the designer’s approach to menswear. The collection explored British outdoor wear, a style familiar to the royal, featuring reinterpretations of elements like the pleated kilt, wax cotton jackets and the incorporation of various plaid patterns throughout the designs.
Some other highlights include loose trousers, fur coats, plaid jackets, oversized jackets and multi-coloured leather jackets.
Emporio Armani‘s Fall/Winter 2024 season was an ode to the deep sea and everything nautical, inspired by the Atlantic. Describing the collection, the Italian brand stated, “The collection has a bold spirit, defined by clear silhouettes anchored to the ground.”
High collars were the highlight of the collection and were prominently displayed on both overcoats and tailored pieces. Leather ankle-length coats, relaxed-fitting trousers, long trench coats, sailor-style hats and trousers were also featured.
Prada created an indoor backdrop inspired by nature for its Fall/Winter 2024-25 menswear collection, encouraging people to venture outdoors. The collection featured monochrome turtlenecks in shades that matched the headwear, vibrant coloured cardigans, coloured conductor hats, sweaters and balaclavas in yellow, black and brown. In contrast, woollen peacoats, trenches and overcoats adhered to neutral colours.
Coming to the accessories, oversized belts, leather bags (designed to accommodate full-size laptops) and formal wear sandals added a playful touch to formal attire.
JW Anderson drew inspiration from Stanley Kubrick’s 1999 erotic mystery drama Eyes Wide Shut for the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The film’s sensual undertones were the driving force behind the designer’s latest menswear line. Specifically, Anderson delved into the paintings of Christiane Kubrick, the director’s wife, featured within the film’s interiors. These paintings, known for sparking commentary about potential secret meanings and codes, were integrated into the collection.
They adorned elongated knit dresses and were printed onto handbags, with the artist actively involved in the collaborative project. Whereas for the rest of the collection, models strutted down the runway in sweaters, velvet blazers, inflating cardigans and relaxed suits.
For Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2024 season, creative director Alessandro Sartori put the spotlight on the progress made in the menswear laboratory, which has been described as a space where “he can tirelessly explore new fabrications, develop new forms and devise forward-looking clothing solutions suited for the now.”
The key pieces of the presentation included cashmere coats, athleisure co-ord sets, oversized jackets and long leather coats in the shades of camel, ochre yellow, sand, olive, khaki, black, brown and violet.
(Hero and feature image credit: Courtesy Instagram/Gucci and JW Anderson)
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